IP Short Ram Intake

[Holden]

I put it on today. Haven't driven it yet.

Don't mind the zip ties. I'm just experimenting. It comes with a metal bracket that could mount it better if I took some time.

It fits unmodified. It sort of rests on the AC lines and could possibly bounce of the radiator resevoir under compression braking.

The filter is similar to the K&N that comes with an AEM cai, except it allows air through the top too. Filtered, of course.

Hey, for $60, it's all it should be. I may cut it a bit shorter. Yes, it's 3" diameter.

Greg

[JRCivic]

Greg,

What brand intake tube did you say that this is pictured above ???

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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph

[Type Rs]

Importparts.com has them listed as their own intakes.
http://store.importparts.com/cgi-bin...11.storefront/

[Marc]

Greg,

Regarding the velocity stack on your intake, how does the stack meet? What I mean is, if you look on the inside of the filter is there a piece of plastic at the base of the cone on the stack or does the cotton & gauze filter just meet like a "V" shape. Often times those velocity stacks cause turbulence and lead to a decrease in HP. I lost nearly 10HP on the dyno vs an open pipe when I ran an S&B filter that had a velocity stack. My filter had a piece of plastic at the center of the stack which led to horrible air flow. Check it out.


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Marc

The supercharger is gone and so is my civic. Damn thieves!
Want to know why I got rid of the JRSC? http://crx.honda-perf.org/horror/jrsc.html

Coming soon: A new member to the 12 second club.

AIM=spoolyn

[This message has been edited by Marc (edited July 06, 2001).]

[zip]

I had that same setup a couple of months ago. It caused a lot of heatsoak from the radiator fan. Here's the breakdown of the various short tube 3" intake setups I've had:


Got this intake from a CSi member's recommendation.

Cost: It only costs me $40 for the tube.

Material: aluminum

Performance: The intake tube sometimes got to hot to the touch since there was no heatshield and cold air ducting. There was no way of making a heatshield since it was so close to the radiator hoses.


Prior setup:


I replaced this setup because the 3" exhaust tubing was too heavy. This is a version of Slater's CAI.

Cost: It only costs me $25 for the tube from JC whitney, but I had to paint it. BTW, I shit canned that filter since it didn't "filter" all to well. I got a K&N instead, pictured above and below.

Material: alumnized steel tubing

Performance: The intake tube never got to hot to the touch w/ heat shield and cold air ducting.


Present setup:


Researched various intake dimensions and came up with this last gen eclipse intake. I believe the previous gen Accord intake works as well.

Costs: It also only costs me $40 for the tube. Don't mind the AEM sticker, it's for CARB purposes only.

Materials: aluminum

Performance: Always stays cool w/ a new heatshield config plus cold air ducting.

Ever since I remade a new double heat shield configuration w/ cold air ducting the intake tube has stayed cooler than the other two previous setups.





I think all the short tube intake setups will benefit from a heatshield and cold air ducting to prevent radiator fan heat soak.

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Mods



[This message has been edited by zip (edited July 08, 2001).]

[Holden]

Marc: If I remember correctly, the "top" cone of the filter (the part you can see in one of zip's pictures but not in mine) meets at a 50cent piece sized disc. I can always throw on the K&N from the AEM kit.

Zip: How did you know that one filter didn't filter well?

I'm autocrossing on Sunday, so I'll see what it feels like "in battle". Maybe I'll bring the AEM too.

Greg

[zip]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Holden:
Marc: If I remember correctly, the "top" cone of the filter (the part you can see in one of zip's pictures but not in mine) meets at a 50cent piece sized disc. I can always throw on the K&N from the AEM kit.

Zip: How did you know that one filter didn't filter well?

I'm autocrossing on Sunday, so I'll see what it feels like "in battle". Maybe I'll bring the AEM too.

Greg<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Clogged up the IAC mesh screen since my initial JRSC install last year. It was filled with soot and caused the engine to just quit at idle after popping the clutch out of gear. With the K&N, I've checked the IAC and it's been soot free.

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Mods

[randomwalk101]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by zip:
Clogged up the IAC mesh screen since my initial JRSC install last year. It was filled with soot and caused the engine to just quit at idle after popping the clutch out of gear. With the K&N, I've checked the IAC and it's been soot free.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hey Zip, what exactly is tht IAC mesh screen? I'd like to check it... My GSR only has 160K miles on it so it would be clean right? ::wink::

[zip]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by randomwalk101:
Hey Zip, what exactly is tht IAC mesh screen? I'd like to check it... My GSR only has 160K miles on it so it would be clean right? ::wink::
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


See the opening of the IAC on the picture below?


That used to have a mesh screen. I cut it out just in case it ever clogs again. If you look carefully you can still see parts of the mesh on the edges. Before reinstallation, I made sure to take all the remaining mesh screen pieces out. This is for a 2000 Si, so your setup may vary.

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Mods

[This message has been edited by zip (edited September 03, 2001).]

[Holden]

I test drove today. I can't feel any difference.

After hard driving, the pipe is cool enough to comfortably hold. Probably less than 90 degrees.

I think the header wrap is paying off.

Greg